Four Périgord Markets That Are Worth the Journey
For those who value freshness, giant French supermarkets are no competition for weekly outdoor markets. Here’s how to shop like a local in the Dordogne.
In France, Doing a Reverse Julia Child
When an Alsatian butcher handed me a free pork shoulder, I didn’t know what to do with it. But I wasn’t about to let it go to waste.
Sniffing Out a Restaurateur’s Cheesemonger
A cheese store worth a detour is just a quick hop from Vichy, France, famous for its thermal waters, Art Deco buildings and role in World War II history.
In Alsace, Elevating a Once-Scorned Grape to a New Status
When does a Sylvaner not look or taste like a Sylvaner? The winemakers at Domaine Armand Hurst, in Turckheim, have an answer to that riddle.
Eating Like a Grape Picker in Alsace
The harvest is a festive time, with celebrations in wine-producing villages and food stores offering seasonal concoctions. I tried my hand at baeckeoffe.
Why and How to Visit Verdun
With underground forts and a vast, high-tech, museum, the century-old Verdun battlefield offers lessons for today. Here’s how to structure a brief visit.